Bradbury 4 Post Lift Installation Manual
Do you have the exact model number? Try this link. If you can be ar5ed you can zoom in on each page then use Windows 7 Snipping Tool to save each page. Then combine them with Acrobat or similar. Actually my mate used to be an insurance inspector (for Plant Safety) he MIGHT still have the documents/manuals they gave him.no g'tees but I'll ask! He does demolition work now, seems the Chrimbo parties are better, more booze/birds & Columbian nose candy laid on! Edited October 17, 2012 by Onoff.
Thanks KME I'll describe the problem so you can ask them when you see them. The driven leg is basically a tube with a section removed.
I.e if you look at it's section it's a big 'C' shape. In the middle of the leg is the tall hydraulic ram. Two flat 'straps' hang down from the top of this to lift that corner of the car deck (the other 3 legs lift the platform via wire ropes) When they got the dismantled hoist, the 'straps' were unbolted from that corner of the car deck. Now they have bolted them to the deck, but with the straps outside the leg. Now the heads of the bolts won't fit through the gap to pop it back inside the leg. So you need to assemble it inside the leg?
But of course then there's no access to get the bolts in. To my mind, the only way this is possible is to further dismantle the leg, so you are left with just the hydraulic ram. Hang the deck from it's straps, and then lower the leg down over the ram. But that's a lot of weight to lift quite high to do that. They have spoken to the guys that dismantled it, and they said they just 'wiggled' the leg until the two bolts popped through, springing the gap open in the process, but it seems near impossible to do that in reverse. The only other suggestion was to get the grinder out and enlarge the gap in part of the leg, but that's firmly into bodge it territory (though I can't see what harm it would actually do) Edited October 18, 2012 by ProDave.
Dave is this ramp for professional use? These arn't the sort of thing that wants getting wrong if people are working underneath. No for private use. The guy is a classic car collector, he has about 10 classic cars in various states of repair ranging from pristine and on the road, to rusting hulks awaiting restoration. It is however in his furniture storage warehouse (that's his main business furniture retailing) along with half a dozen of his cars, so perhaps a grey area, but he's the only one that will use it. Just to be clear, I'm not assembling it.
I've wired the supply to it, but putting the thing mechanically back together is something he's puzzling over and I'm just trying to help him. A mate of mine has a 4 post ramp (no idea of make / model). I can take some pics of it either tomorrow or sat if you want?
But from what you said, the ram is in the post section? I know on this one there is nothing in the posts, other than a steel cable hanging from the top to the bed - all the guts are under there Yes on this one, the ram is in the middle of the 'driven' leg. And steel ropes connect via pulleys to lift the other 3 legs as the driven one raises. I note according to a label on it, the steel ropes are due for replacement by 2014 so I hope he has factored that into his sums. Edited October 18, 2012 by ProDave.
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Ive been offered a 4 Poster Ramp, 3.5ton SWL for my Unit. I have seen it work, about 5 years ago, then the bloke packed up and has this stored in his Garage at home, as you would of though, it dominates a rather large space. Now, Its not the best looking of ramps, its had its fair use so id like to paint it to make it look nice, i was thinking just some Aerosols to make it look nice againt, or do you think it would need some tougher paint? Is it will be used quite alot. Second question, he also mentioned the Cables need replacing, As they were due for replacing when he shut shop and removed it from his Garage. How expensive are these cables? Can you DIY them?
Four Post Lift Installation Manual
Or is a certificate needed etc (Insurance purposes?). Third question, He said it will need fitting to the floor, how, i dont have the kind of heavy duty tools he was saying needed to secure it to the floor, how much would it cost to have this ramp secured and hooked up? Many thanks for replies!
Firstly I would personally avoid 4 post ramps, they don't allow as convenient a work access as a 2 post and are much more difficult to install, maintain and repair. Can't say how much it would cost to replace the cables but if they have worn to the extent of needing replacement the whole ramp will need careful inspection. Installing is not that much of a problem, it would just need the floor drilling to take suitable anchor bolts and connection of the wiring, could be single or 3 phase. My advice would be to get a 2 post lift, I would not be without mine. Inspection is not an insureance thing any more.
LOLR89 is a stataty requirement for lifting equipement and it gives inspection fequancy intervals for classes of equiment normaly 6 months for man lifting and 12 months for other things. These inspections are often carried out by enginners working for insurance companys but there are indipents that can do it.
Another consideration is if its an old machine will it meet the machinary directive requiments as a old machine in a new install needs to meet the same requrments as a new machine. If its cheap, and you want it, then buy it. Cables are a replaceable item.
Regarding the paint, id hammerite it. For a 4 post ramp then securing it is not as big a deal as it would be for a 2 poster. As long as the concrete is 4 inches thick, with re-bar, it will be fine. Your only taking his word for it that they need replacing, get it installed and serviced/inspected by a lift engineer, they may be fine. If his '3 year rule' for cables means that they need replacing after 3 years then thats total rubbish, sorry. Our lift has to be saftey inspected every 6 months, we have to keep paperwork on hand to colaborate this.
When the guy checks it he does a report that we keep. Any minor faults or adjustments are done there and then but are recorded. He has different classes if you like of faults, minor ones are noted and he does them or we do them asap. Major ones like toe gaurd bars brocken then thats an imediate prohibition of use. If we don't fix it or don't let him do it there and then IE if he leaves with it unfixed he HAS to inform the HSE. I'm not sure if he informs the HSE even if its fixed there and then that it was prohibition.
Obtw he does torque check all the main bolts etc including the floor fixings. You only need it inspected if you are an employer, I have a 4 poster and as a sole trader I dont get health and safety visits or my insurers wanting certificates.
I managed to get an instruction book for mine which gave an installation guide, it gave safe distance from walls/marking out points for bolt holes/wiring etc etc. I've had a two post and didnt get on with it, I spent more time on my hands and knees trying to find a suitable place to put the pads to safely lift the car, lift it a foot and decide I didnt like where I had put the pads, lower it again and so on. Two post ramps have lift nuts which are brass and mine needed replacing which were £180 per side to replace as there are 4, 2 lift nuts and 2 safety nuts. My 4 post is a 3.5 ton but the heaviest car I will ever have on it is 2 ton, this should help give the cables longevity.
The cables for my ramp are £250 per set, I ve seen other brands priced up to £400 so you get a rough idea of the cable price.